STEM Adafruit Catalog
The eTape Liquid Level Sensor is a solid-state sensor with a resistive output that varies with the level of the fluid. It does away with clunky mechanical floats, and easily interfaces with electronic control systems. The eTape sensor’s envelope is compressed by the hydrostatic pressure of the fluid in which it is immersed. This results in a change in resistance that corresponds to the distance from the top of the sensor to the surface of the fluid. The sensor’s resistive output is inversely proportional to the height of the liquid: the lower the liquid level, the higher the output resistance; the higher the liquid level, the lower the output resistance.
This tiny coin cell battery holder is ideal for small portable or wearable projects. It holds two 20mm coin cells (2032 are the most popular size) in series to generate 6V nominal. (If you want only 3V, we suggest sticking a crumpled piece of tin foil in one of the slots.) 20mm coin cells are popular as they are used in keychain lights, so they are easy to get, and fairly low cost. They tend to have about 220mAh capacity so this holder would give you 6V @ 220mAh with two cells.
This battery holder connects 3 AAA batteries together in series for powering all kinds of projects. We spec’d these out because the box is slim, and 3 AAA’s add up to about 3.3-4.5V, a very similar range to Lithium Ion/polymer (Li-Ion) batteries and have an on-off switch. That makes them ideal for use with 3.3V projects that have a 2-pin JST connector meant for one of our Li-Ion/Poly batteries. (Of course, you can’t recharge them like Li-Ion/Polys, so don’t try to plug this into one of our Li-Ion/Poly charger boards!) Fits any standard AAA battery. When using rechargeable NiMH the output voltage will range from about 3.7V with charged batteries to 2.7V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of 3.6V. When using alkalines, the output will range from 4.6V with new batteries to 3.3V at the end of life with a nominal voltage of about 4.5V.
We worked hard to engineer an inexpensive but well-rounded design. Not only is it easy to assemble and customize, it also comes with great documentation and libraries.Our latest version of this popular shield has all the features of the popular original, and is “R3” compatible so you can use it with just about any Arduino or compatible. You can be up and running with it in less than 15 minutes — saving data to files on any FAT16 or FAT32 formatted SD card, to be read by any plotting, spreadsheet or analysis program. We even have a tutorial on how to use two free software programs to plot your data The included RTC (Real Time Clock) can be used to timestamp all your data with the current time, so that you know precisely what happened when!
Now that you’ve finally got your hands on a Raspberry Pi® Model B , you’re probably itching to make some fun embedded computer projects with it. What you need is an add on prototyping Pi Cobbler from Adafruit, which can break out all those tasty power, GPIO, I2C and SPI pins from the 26 pin header onto a solderless breadboard. This set will make “cobbling together” prototypes with the Pi super easy. Designed for use with Raspberry Pi Model B AND Model A, both revisions. This will not work with the Raspberry Pi 2 or Model A+ or B+ If you have one of those, check out our 40-pin version of this item.This Cobbler is in a compact shape, which is the least bulky way to wire up. We also have the fancier T-Cobbler.
This version of the FX boards is discontinued until we figure out why sometimes the amplifier doesn’t work. Till then, you can use a Mini Sound FX board + one of our class D audio amps!
Would you like to add audio/sound effects to your next project, without an Arduino+Shield? Or maybe you don’t even know how to use microcontrollers, you just want to make a sound play whenever you press a button. What about something that has to be small and portable? You are probably feeling a little frustrated: it’s been very hard to find a simple, low cost audio effects trigger that is easy to use and does not require any programming. We have one left in store.
The DRV2605 from TI is a fancy little motor driver. Rather than controlling a stepper motor or DC motor, its designed specifically for controlling haptic motors – buzzers and vibration motors. Normally one would just turn those kinds of motors on and off, but this driver has the ability to have various effects when driving a vibe motor. For example, ramping the vibration level up and down, ‘click’ effects, different buzzer levels, or even having the vibration follow a musical/audio input. This chip is controlled over I2C – after initialization, a ‘string’ of multiple effects can be strung together in the chips memory and then triggered to actuate in a row. The built in effects are much much nicer than just ‘on’ and ‘off’ and will make your haptic project way nicer feeling.
Feather is the new development board from Adafruit, and like its namesake it is thin, light, and lets you fly! We designed Feather to be a new standard for portable microcontroller cores. This is the Adafruit Feather 32u4 FONA – our take on an ‘all-in-one’ Arduino-compatible + audio/sms/data capable cellular with built in USB and battery charging. Its an Adafruit Feather 32u4 with a FONA800 module, ready to rock! We have other boards and accessories in the Feather family, check’em out here. At the Feather 32u4’s heart is at ATmega32u4 clocked at 8 MHz and at 3.3V logic, a chip setup we’ve had tons of experience with as it’s the same as the Flora…
NEW In version 2! On March 4, 2015 we released Version 2, which is physically and code-wise identical but has changed the Mini-B connection for a Micro-B USB connector and adds a much-requested On-Off switch! The Attiny85 is a fun processor because despite being so small, it has 8K of flash, and 5 I/O pins, including analog inputs and PWM ‘analog’ outputs. We designed a USB bootloader so you can plug it into any computer and reprogram it over a USB port just like an Arduino (it uses 2 of the 5 I/O pins, leaving you with 3). In fact we even made some simple modifications to the Arduino IDE so that it works like a mini-Flora. Perfect for small & simple projects the GEMMA will be your go-to wearable electronics platform.
Simply connect 3 to 6VDC to the + pin and ground to the — pin, and the LED on the board will light up. You can make the LEDs fade and twinkle by using the PWM (a.k.a. analogWrite) functionality of your Gemma or Flora, or just connect directly to a digital I/O pin of a microcontroller to turn on and off. Or even skip the micro altogether, and power directly from a LiPoly or coin battery. This order comes with 5 Warm White “1206 size” LEDs, matched with a 100 ohm resistor. When powered from 3.3V they draw about 5mA so you can put up to 4 or 5 in parallel on a single microcontroller pin. We also have these sequins in ruby red, emerald green, royal blue, and rose pink.
Simply plug it via any MicroUSB cable into a USB port and a 3.7V/4.2V lithium polymer or lithium ion rechargeable battery into the JST plug on the other end. There are two LEDs — one red and one green. While charging, the red LED is lit. When the battery is fully charged and ready for use, the green LED turns on. Charging is performed in three stages: first a preconditioning charge, then a constant-current fast charge and finally a constant-voltage trickle charge to keep the battery topped-up. The charge current is 100mA by default, so it will work with any size battery and USB port. If you want you can easily change it over to 500mA mode by soldering closed the jumper on the front, for when you’ll only be charging batteries with 500mAh size or larger.
What’s better than a single LED? Lots of LEDs! A fun way to make a small display is to use an 8×8 matrix or a 4-digit 7-segment display. Matrices like these are ‘multiplexed’ — so to control 64 LEDs you need 16 pins. That’s a lot of pins, and there are driver chips like the MAX7219 that can control a matrix for you but there’s a lot of wiring to set up and they take up a ton of space. Here at Adafruit we feel your pain! After all, wouldn’t it be awesome if you could control a matrix without tons of wiring? That’s where these adorable LED matrix backpacks come in. We have them in two flavors — a mini 8×8 and a 4-digit 0.56″ 7-segment. They work perfectly with the matrices we stock in the Adafruit shop and make adding a bright little display trivial.
An unbelievable 144 individually-controllable LED pixels on a flexible PCB. It’s completely out of control and ready for you to blink. This strip has a black mask, and an extra heavy flex PCB.These LED strips are even more fun and glowy. There are 144 RGB LEDs per meter, and you can control each LED individually! You can set the color of each LED’s red, green and blue component with 8-bit PWM precision (so 24-bit color per pixel). The LEDs are controlled by shift-registers that are chained up and down the strip so you can shorten or lengthen the strip. Only 1 digital out pin is required to send data. The PWM is built into each LED-chip so once you set the color you can stop talking to the strip and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you.
It features a 2.8″ display with 320×240 16-bit color pixels and a resistive touch overlay. The plate uses the high speed SPI interface on the Pi and can use the mini display as a console, X window port, displaying images or video etc. Best of all it plugs right in on top! It’s designed to fit nicely onto the Pi 1 Model A or B but also works OK with the Pi Zero, Pi 3, Pi 2 or Pi 1 Model A+ or B+ (any Pi with a 2×20 connector) as long as you don’t mind the PCB overhangs the USB ports by 5mm, see the photos above. If you have a modern Pi with a 2×20 connector, you may want to grab a PiTFT 2.8″ Plus which does not overhang.
Compatible with Arduino Uno, Duemilanove, Mega, Leonardo and Due – basically any Arduino-pinout-shaped Arduino as only the GND and 5V pins are used. You can stack shields on top, or stack the PowerBoost on top. Please note that the powerboost does not pass through the ICSP headers (the battery is in the way) so if your stacking shield uses ICSP for data transfer (like the Ethernet Shield), you’ll need to stack the PowerBoost above it! The PowerBoost shield can run off of any Lithium Ion or Lithium Polymer battery (3.7/4.2V kind) but we suggest our 1200mAh capacity or 2000mAh capacity batteries, both of which fits very nicely in the empty space of the shield. Plug in the battery and recharge it via the microUSB jack.
Trinket’s got a big sister in town — the Pro Trinket 5V! Pro Trinket combines everything you love about Trinket with the familiarity of the common core Arduino chip, the ATmega328. It’s like an Arduino Pro Mini with more pins and USB tossed in, so delicious.Trinket’s a year old now, and while its been great to see tons of tiny projects, sometimes you just need more pins, more FLASH, and more RAM. That’s why we designed Pro Trinket, with 18 GPIO, 2 extra analog inputs, 28K of flash, and 2K of RAM. Like the Trinket, it has onboard USB bootloading support — we opted for a MicroUSB jack this time. We also added Optiboot support, so you can either program your Pro Trinket over USB or with a FTDI cable just like the Pro Mini and friends.
This item is just for the Trellis driver PCB assembly: LEDs and buttons not included. Trellis is an open source backlight keypad driver system. It is easy to use, works with any 3mm LEDs and eight tiles can be tiled together on a shared I2C bus.This PCB is specially made to match the Adafruit 4×4 elastomer keypad. Each Trellis PCB has 4×4 pads and 4×4 matching spots for 3mm LEDs. The circuitry on-board handles the background key-presses and LED lighting for the 4×4 tile. However, it does not have any microcontroller or other ‘brains’ — an Arduino (or similar microcontroller) is required to control the Trellis to read the keypress data and let it know when to light up LEDs as desired.
Battery power for your portable project! These batteries are good quality at a good price, and work fantastic with any of the kits or projects in the shop that use AAA’s
These batteries are Alkaline (MnO2) chemistry, with a voltage range of 1.6V (fresh) to 0.8V (dead). The mAh capacity depends on discharge usage but at 25mA rate it is 1200mAh (check the datasheet in the download tab for more details). These work perfectly with the Drawdio kit, Geiger counter kit, Brain machine kit, Ex330 multimeter, and 4xAAA EL wire/tape/panel inverter.
Circuit Playground features an ATmega32u4 processor, just like our popular Flora. The board’s also round and has alligator-clip pads around it so you don’t have to solder or sew to make it work. You can power it from USB, a AAA battery pack, or with a Lipoly battery (for advanced users). Just program your code into the board then take it on the go!
- ATmega32u4 Processor, running at 3.3V and 8MHz
- MicroUSB port for programming and debugging with Arduino IDE
- USB port can act like serial port, keyboard, mouse, joystick or MIDI
They are costume goggles only! You can wear them on top of your head or on your eyes but do not use for welding or flying or motorcycling, etc. The goggles are fully plastic and have screw-off lens-holders. Each goggle comes with two lenses per eye: one clear glass and one 50% tint plastic. The dark tint lens makes it so you can stuff electronics into the goggles without people being able to see them, but still lets thru plenty of light from your LEDs. Of course, they fit our NeoPixel 16 rings quite well (that’s what we got ’em for!). There’s no foam or padding, you can add your own foam if you need more comfort, but basically these were meant for wearing on top of your head.
The strip is made of flexible PCB material, and comes with a weatherproof sheathing. You can cut this stuff pretty easily with wire cutters, there are cut-lines every 2.5″/6.2cm (2 LEDs each). Solder to the 0.1″ copper pads and you’re good to go. Of course, you can also connect strips together to make them longer, just watch how much current you need! We have a 5V/2A supply that should be able to drive 1 or more meters (depending on use) and a 5V/10A supply that can drive 5 meters (or more, if you are not lighting up all the LEDs at once) You must use a 5V DC power supply to power these strips, do not use higher than 6V or you will destroy the entire strip.
This breakout is best used for projects such as voice changers, audio recording/sampling, and audio-reactive projects that use FFT. On the back, we include a small trimmer pot to adjust the gain. You can set the gain from 25x to 125x. That’s down to be about 200mVpp (for normal speaking volume about 6″ away) which is good for attaching to something that expects ‘line level’ input without clipping, or up to about 1Vpp, ideal for reading from a microcontroller ADC. The output is rail-to-rail so if the sounds gets loud, the output can go up to 5Vpp! Using it is simple: connect GND to ground, VCC to 2.4-5VDC. For the best performance, use the “quietest” supply available (on an Arduino, this would be the 3.3V supply). The audio waveform will come out of the OUT pin. The output will have a DC bias of VCC/2 so when its perfectly quiet, the voltage will be a steady VCC/2 volts (it is DC coupled).
FLORA is Adafruit’s fully-featured wearable electronics platform. It’s a round, sewable, Arduino-compatible microcontroller designed to empower amazing wearables projects.FLORA comes with Adafruit’s support, tutorials and projects. Check out dozens of FLORA tutorials on the Adafruit Learning System, with more added all the time! The FLORA is small (1.75″ diameter, weighing 4.4 grams). The FLORA family also has the best stainless steel threads, sensors, GPS modules and chainable LED NeoPixels, perfect accessories for the FLORA main board. The FLORA has built-in USB support. Built in USB means you plug it in to program it, it just shows up – all you need is a Micro-B USB cable, no additional purchases are needed! We have a modified version of the Arduino IDE so Mac & Windows users can get started fast – or with the new 1.6.4+ Arduino IDE, it takes only a few seconds to add Flora-support. The FLORA has USB HID support, so it can act like a mouse or keyboard to attach directly to computers.
Add motion, direction and orientation sensing to your wearable FLORA project with this high precision 9-DOF sensors. Inside are three sensors, one is a classic 3-axis accelerometer, which can tell you which direction is down towards the Earth (by measuring gravity) or how fast the board is accelerating in 3D space. The other is a 3-axis magnetometer that can sense where the strongest magnetic force is coming from, generally used to detect magnetic north. The third is a 3-axis gyroscope that can measure spin and twist. By combining this data you can REALLY orient yourself.
Add motion and direction sensing to your wearable FLORA project with this high precision 3-axis Accelerometer+Compass sensor. Inside are two sensors, one is a classic 3-axis accelerometer, which can tell you which direction is down towards the Earth (by measuring gravity) or how fast the board is accelerating in 3D space. The other is a magnetometer that can sense where the strongest magnetic force is coming from, generally used to detect magnetic north. By combining this data you can then orient yourself.
Your electronics can now see in dazzling color with this lovely color light sensor. We found the best color sensor on the market, the TCS34725, which has RGB and Clear light sensing elements. An IR blocking filter, integrated on-chip and localized to the color sensing photodiodes, minimizes the IR spectral component of the incoming light and allows color measurements to be made accurately. The filter means you’ll get much truer color than most sensors, since humans don’t see IR. The sensor also has an incredible 3,800,000:1 dynamic range with adjustable integration time and gain so it is suited for use behind darkened glass or fabric.
Add light-reactive sensing to your wearable Flora project with this high precision Lux sensor. The TSL2561 luminosity sensor is an advanced digital light sensor, ideal for use in a wide range of light situations. Compared to low cost CdS cells, this sensor is more precise, allowing for exact lux calculations and can be configured for different gain/timing ranges to detect light ranges from up to 0.1 – 40,000+ Lux on the fly. The best part of this sensor is that it contains both infrared and full spectrum diodes! That means you can separately measure infrared, full-spectrum or human-visible light. Most sensors can only detect one or the other, which does not accurately represent what human eyes see (since we cannot perceive the IR light that is detected by most photo diodes)
Our favorite part of the Flora platform is these tiny smart pixels. Designed specifically for wearables, these updated Flora NeoPixels have ultra-cool technology: these ultra-bright LEDs have a constant-current driver cooked right into the LED package! This is the second version of the Flora NeoPixels, which runs at at ‘high speed’ 800KHz communication. Unfortunately they are not back-compatible with the chip-on-back ‘low speed’ (400KHz) Flora NeoPixels. If you have a project that already uses low speed pixels, and you want to attach more pixels to the chain, you will need to purchase version 1’s as these are not cross-compatible.
Designed specifically for wearables, these updated Flora NeoPixels have ultra-cool technology: these ultra-bright LEDs have a constant-current driver cooked right into the LED package! The pixels are chainable — so you only need 1 pin/wire to control as many LEDs as you like. They’re easy to sew, and the chainable design means no crossed threads. These pixels have full 24-bit color ability with PWM taken care of by the controller chip. Since the LED is so bright, you need less current/power to get the effects you want. The driver is constant current so it’s OK if your battery power changes or fluctuates a little. Each pixel draws as much as 60mA (all three RGB LEDs on for full brightness white).
Your wearable can now keep you from getting sunburnt, with the Flora digital UV index sensor. We took our popular SI1145 UV index sensor and cut out everything you don’t need for using with a Flora. It’s small, round, and connects to the I2C bus pads. Flora can even use our library code to get calibrated light level and UV index data from the sensor. Please note: this sensor can be used by Flora but is too complex for Gemma! To use: connect the 3V, SDA and SCL, and GND pads of the sensor to your Flora 3V/SDA/SCL/GND pads, in that order. Then load up our Arduino library and example code from our tutorial to your Flora.
The Flora Bluefruit LE makes it easy to add Bluetooth Low Energy connectivity to your Flora. Sew 4 traces (or solder 4 wires) and BooM! Bluetooth Low Energy! Get started fast with the Bluefruit App! Using our Bluefruit iOS App or Android App, you can quickly get your interactive project prototyped by using your iOS or Android phone/tablet as a controller. We have a color picker,quaternion/ accelerometer/gyro/magnetometer or location (GPS), and an 8-button control game pad. After you connect to the Bluefruit, you can send commands wirelessly in under 10 minutes.
The breakout is built around the MTK3339 chipset, a no-nonsense, high-quality GPS module that can track up to 22 satellites on 66 channels, has an excellent high-sensitivity receiver (-165 dB tracking!), and a built in antenna. It can do up to 10 location updates a second for high speed, high sensitivity logging or tracking. Power usage is incredibly low, only 20 mA during navigation. The module is kept small and simple, we have a ferrite bead, filter capacitor and red fix LED on board. The LED blinks at about 1Hz while it’s searching for satellites and blinks once every 15 seconds when a fix is found to conserve power. If you want to have an LED on all the time, we also provide the FIX signal out on a pin so you can put an external LED on.
Just about all electronics use TTL serial for debugging, bootloading, programming, serial output, etc. But it’s rare for a computer to have a serial port anymore. This is a USB to TTL serial cable, with a FTDI FT232RL usb/serial chip embedded in the head. It has a 6-pin socket at the end with 5V power and ground, as well as RX, TX, RTS and CTS at 3V logic levels. These are perfect for use with a Boarduino, Meggy’s, or other Arduino clones and derivatives, and Fuzeboxen. Useful whenever you want to communicate with a TTL serial device, such as an XBee.
That new Raspberry Pi® Model A or B computer you just got has a row of 2×13 pin headers soldered on — those are the GPIO (general purpose input/output) pins and for those of us who like to hack electronics they are where the real fun is. By programming the Pi, you can twiddle those pins high or low, send and receive I2C and SPI data, and access the 3V and 5V power rails. This cable is not compatible with the Raspberry Pi Model B+. If you want to bridge those contacts out onto another PCB, you’ll want this cable! It’s 6″ long and has 26 socket & wire sets. Pin #1 is marked with a white wire. If you have one of our nice Pi Box cases, you can even have this plugged in while the case is closed by passing the ribbon cable through the slot on the side.
The squarish board with two chips on it is the transmitter (power with 9V). The longer board is the output and you can connect that to the part of your project that needs powering. Inductive charging is a way of powering a device without a direct wire connection. Most people have seen inductive charging in a rechargable electric toothbrush: you may have noticed that you recharge it by placing it into the holder, but there’s no direct plug. These chargers work by taking a power transformer and splitting it in half, an AC waveform is generated into one, and couples into the second coil.
These 4-wire cables are 15cm long and come as a set, one side has a JST SM type connector plug on the end. The other side has a matching JST SM type receptacle connector. They are good for whenever you have 4 wires you want to be able to plug and unplug. We like the solid and compact nature of these connectors and the latch that keeps the cable from coming apart easily. For more information, check the JST SM connector datasheet. Our digital addressable LED strip and 12mm pixels also come with JST SM connectors and you can use these cables to connect to the input or output port
By popular demand, we now have a handy extension cord for all of our JST-terminated battery packs (such as our LiIon/LiPoly and 3xAAA holders). One end has a JST-PH socket, and the other end has a matching plug. Between the two, 500mm of color coded wire. Handy for wearable projects where you may want the battery pack far from your Flora but useful in many other situations where you need a little more space.
Sew a little sparkle into your wearable project with an Adafruit LED Sequin. These are the kid-sister to our popular Flora NeoPixel, they only show a single color and they don’t have digital control, but that makes them smaller easier to use for many projects. Simply connect 3 to 6VDC to the + pin and ground to the – pin, and the LED on the board will light up.
Sew a little sparkle into your wearable project with an Adafruit LED Sequin. These are the kid-sister to our popular Flora NeoPixel, they only show a single color and they don’t have digital control, but that makes them smaller easier to use for many projects.
Simply connect 3 to 6VDC to the + pin and ground to the – pin, and the LED on the board will light up.
Sew a little sparkle into your wearable project with an Adafruit LED Sequin. These are the kid-sister to our popular Flora NeoPixel, they only show a single color and they don’t have digital control, but that makes them smaller easier to use for many projects. Simply connect 3 to 6VDC to the + pin and ground to the – pin, and the LED on the board will light up.
Keep your electronics from going barefoot, give them little rubber feet! These small sticky bumpers are our favorite accessory for any electronic kit or device. They are sticky, but not impossible to remove. They’re small enough to fit onto any board, and have just enough height to give clearance to thru-hole soldered components. We love them so much we include them free with every Arduino we sell, but we’ve also had requests to carry them separately. Comes in a pack of 4 pieces. Bumpers may vary in style depending on our supplier but all are approx 8mm diameter and 4mm tall.
These magnetic pin backs have two pieces: a metal bar with adhesive strip and a plastic piece with two strong rare-earth magnets. Affix the metal bar to your FLORA projects– it’s just the right size! Then attach your FLORA project to any garment without poking holes in your clothes. The magnets are strong enough to hold up even a hefty circuit! We recommend against soldering/brazing/welding to any part of the magnetic pin back, as the galvanized steel plate would release harmful zinc fumes and heat demagnetizes neodymium magnets.
You will squeak with delight when you hold this adorable miniature LED matrix. 0.8″ square, its got everything a big LED matrix has, but bite sized! 64 bright blue LEDs are contained inside the plastic body, in an 8×8 matrix. There are 16 pins on the side, 8 on each, with 0.1″ spacing so you can easily plug it into a breadboard with plenty of space to wire it up
Since the display is in a grid, you’ll need to 1:8 multiplex control it. We suggest either using a 74HC595 and TPIC6B595 (using the 74HC’ to control the 8 anodes at once and then using the TPIC’ to drive one cathode at a time) or just using a single MAX7219 which will do the multiplexing work for you.
Have your next project be controlled by your muscles with this pack of Muscle Sensor Surface EMG Electrodes! Pair the electrodes with the MyoWare Muscle Sensor and a microcontroller (ie. Arduino, or anything else with analog input reading ability) to create a DIY low-cost version of an EMG or an electromyograph! Electromyography is an electrodiagnostic medicine technique for evaluating and recording the electrical activity produced by skeletal muscles. Use these sensors in prosthetics, robotics, and so much more!The H124SG Covidien electrode type has a pre-gelled adhesive side with non-irritating gel, especially developed to prevent allergic reactions. The foam electrode is latex free and therefore suitable for every skin type.
Electromyography is an electrodiagnostic medicine technique for evaluating and recording the electrical activity produced by skeletal muscles. Use these sensors in prosthetics, robotics, and so much more! Once you attach the sensor to a large muscle (like your bicep) you can flex and measure the signal spike as an analog voltage. These MyoWare Muscle Sensors are designed to be used by hobbyists, backyard tinkerers, and students alike. Check the datasheet for more information and both setup configurations as well as setup instructions.
This needle set is the only one you’ll need for any sort of hand sewing, especially using our conductive thread and wearable electronics parts. Each pack contains 20 gold-eye sharps, with eye sizes ranging from #3 (1.75″ long) to #9 (1.35″ long). The two #3’s (the largest) are too large to pass through the sewable coin cell holder but otherwise are easy to use and thread. The four #9’s (the smallest) are a little difficult to thread so you may not want to use them with our conductive thread – they’ll be easier to use with normal thread however.
Round and round and round they go! 12 ultra bright smart LED NeoPixels are arranged in a circle with 1.5″ (37mm) outer diameter. The rings are ‘chainable’ — connect the output pin of one to the input pin of another. Use only one microcontroller pin to control as many as you can chain together! Each LED is addressable as the driver chip is inside the LED. Each one has ~18mA constant current drive so the color will be very consistent even if the voltage varies, and no external choke resistors are required making the design slim. Power the whole thing with 5VDC and you’re ready to rock.
PowerBoost 500C is the perfect power supply for your portable project! With a built-in battery charger circuit, you’ll be able to keep your project running even while recharging the battery! Like our popular 5V 1A USB wall adapter, we tweaked the output to be 5.2V instead of a straight-up 5.0V so that there’s a little bit of ‘headroom’ for long cables, high draw, the addition of a diode on the output if you wish, etc. The 5.2V is safe for all 5V-powered electronics like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, or Beagle Bone while preventing icky brown-outs during high current draw because of USB cable resistance.
This battery holder is by far the easiest way to add a battery to a small wearable project. By coincidence, there are two small 1mm diameter holes in the metal connection tabs, just large enough for a #5 or smaller needle to pass through. One tab connects to common ground (negative) and the other tab is +3 Volts. This holder is meant to be used with Lithium CR2032 (20mm diameter, 3.2mm thick) sized coin batteries. These are almost always 3V at about 200+ mAh capacity. Lithium coin cells are not rechargeable but they are very easy to find, available at any grocery store. Inserting the coin is easy, the holder is very sturdy, and it snaps out with a push. Its got a nice flat plastic back that you can easily glue in place for extra mechanical stability.
The small 5mm size of these tin-plated brass snaps means they fit perfectly on Flora’s pads! Snaps make a great connector for wearables– solder one side to the board and sew the other to your project with conductive thread! This card comes with 24 complete snaps (socket and stud pairs). Some discoloration may occur during soldering. These snaps are washable, oxidation-resistant, and nonmagnetic.
Silicone-sheathing wire is super-flexible and soft, and its also strong! Able to handle up to 200°C and up to 600V, it will do when PVC covered wire wimps out. We like this wire for being extremely supple and flexible, so it is great for wearables or projects where the wire-harness has to be able to deal with a lot of bending. Comes with one 50ft spool of blue wire. The wire is 30AWG stranded with an outer diameter of 0.8mm.
Silicone-sheathing wire is super-flexible and soft, and its also strong! Able to handle up to 200°C and up to 600V, it will do when PVC covered wire wimps out. We like this wire for being extremely supple and flexible, so it is great for wearables or projects where the wire-harness has to be able to deal with a lot of bending. Comes with one 50ft spool of red wire. The wire is 30AWG stranded with an outer diameter of 0.8mm.
These silicone elastomer keypads are just waiting for your fingers to press them. Go ahead, squish all you like! (They’re durable and easy to clean, just wipe with mild soap and water) These are just like the light up rubber buttons you find on stuff like appliances and tools, but these are open source and easy to integrate into your next project. Each button is 10mm x 10mm square and 10mm tall. There is 5mm of grid spacing between the buttons. You can ’tile’ the button pads edge-to-edge and they’ll grid up correctly. On the bottom of each button is a conductive pad ring which can close a properly design contact underneath. We have an EagleCad library which has objects for the buttons and optional LEDs so you can use them in your next PCB design.
That’s one slim cellular antenna! At 238mm long from tip to tip and and with a cable thickness of just 2mm, this 3dBi GSM antenna is slim, compact and sensitive, with a 3dBi gain. The antenna juts out from its base with stick-on back so you attach it to an enclosure if you’re making something like, say, a DIY phone. It has a tiny uFL connector on the end – which is perfect for the FONA – but will also work well for any other RF project on the 850/900/1800/1900/2100 bands, such as any other Cellular or GSM/GPRS device. We also offer a version of this antenna with a shorter 75mm cable.
That’s one slim cellular antenna! At just 75mm long from tip to tip and and with a thickness of just 2mm, this 3dBi GSM antenna is slim, compact and sensitive, with a 3dBi gain. The antenna juts out from its base with stick-on back so you attach it to an enclosure if you’re making something like, say, a DIY phone. It has a tiny uFL connector on the end – which is perfect for the FONA – but will also work well for any other RF project on the 850/900/1800/1900/2100 bands, such as any other Cellular or GSM/GPRS device. We also offer a version of this antenna with a longer 300mm cable.
Connect this to that without soldering using these handy mini alligator clip test leads. 15″ cables with alligator clip on each end, color coded. You get 12 pieces in 6 colors. Strong and grippy, these always come in handy! We often use these in conjunction with a multimeter so we don’t have to hold the probes in place.
This thread is 2 ply, a little thicker than every day polyester or cotton thread but still thin enough to be sewn by hand in medium-eye needles or with a sewing machine that can handle ‘heavy’ thread. Its ideal for any wearable/e-textile project. It also has fairly low resistivity, 16 ohms per foot so you can use it to drive LEDs and other electronic components that use under ~50mA. Because it is made of stainless steel fibers, it will not oxidize like silver does: your projects will not ‘stop working’ because of oxidation after a few months and its safe to wash.
This incredibly small stereo amplifier is surprisingly powerful — able to deliver 2 x 2.1W channels into 4 ohm impedance speakers (@ 10% THD). Inside the miniature chip is a class D controller, able to run from 2.7V-5.5VDC. Since the amp is a class D, it’s incredibly efficient (89% efficient when driving an 8Ω speaker at 1.5 Watt). It has built in thermal and over-current protection but we could barely tell it got hot. The inputs of the amplifier go through 1.0uF capacitors, so they are fully ‘differential’ — if you don’t have differential outputs, simply tie the R- and L- to ground. The outputs are “Bridge Tied” — that means they connect directly to the outputs, no connection to ground. The output is a ~300KHz square wave PWM that is then ‘averaged out’ by the speaker coil — the high frequencies are not heard.
Squeeze once to turn on, squeeze again to turn off! This clicky switch makes a great power switch or mode toggler. We like this switch because it’s easy to embed in a seam for easily powering up/off wearable and fabric projects. Can handle up to 14V and 2 Amps! This is a really satisfying switch.
As of May 20th, the dimensions of this switch are:
Listen up! This 1.5″ diameter speaker cone is the perfect addition to any audio project where you need an 8Ω impedance and are using 0.25W of power. The speakers are rated at 0.25W, with a maximum input of 0.5W (printed wattage on back of speaker may have either value). We particularly like this cone as it’s very simple and its plastic body is extremely lightweight and thin. Originally designed for ‘talking’ greeting cards, its fairly loud yet lightweight. Works great with our Wave shield or class D amplifier board.
One of the most popular Trinket projects now has its own kit pack! Make your very own programmable NeoPixel goggles with 2 x 16 LED rings and an Adafruit Trinket. It even comes with a rechargeable LiPoly battery and charger. It’s a great easy build and when you’re done you’ll have the coolest accessory. Follow along with our popular Kaleidoscope Eyes tutorial. The pack contains almost everything you need to put a pair of NeoPixel Rings in our costume goggles and power them with an Adafruit Trinket. The LED rings fit perfectly inside 50mm round goggles and we include a 3.7v 150mAh battery and and Micro Lipo charger so you can run the battery and charge it all while contained in the goggles themselves.
Your power supply problems just got SOLVED! This little circuit board may look tiny but inside is a high efficiency DC/DC step-down converter which can output up to 3 Amp at 5V without the need of any heat-sink or forced cooling. (It does get a bit toasty at 3A though) UBEC stands for “universal battery eliminator circuit” and this UBEC is designed to replace a 5V supply in RC planes and ‘copters but its also great for any kind of microcontroller or electronics project that runs off of 5V. We tried a half dozen different ‘BECs and found this one to be the best in terms of range and stability. You can check the technical tab for the analysis of input/output range and current draw.
This woven conductive fabric is silver-plated nylon. Use small pieces for soft switches, plush keypads, capacitive touch sensors, and other textile interfaces. This highly conductive fabric has a resistance of less than 1 ohm per foot in any direction across the textile. Great for use with FLORA. Sold as a 20cm x 20cm piece (minimum dimension) Iron on medium if necessary, steam ok. Dry cleaning recommended. Discoloration can occur over time.